Pellegrino 2000

A neighbourhood trattoria in Surry Hills run by acclaimed chefs Daniel Pepperell and Michael Clift in the kitchen, and wine gun Andy Tyson looking after all things booze and service.

Officially, Pellegrino is an Italian restaurant, but the kitchen uses plenty of ingredients that would shock a Tuscan.

Shelves of tomato tins and display pasta channel a more traditional trattoria, and modernist Italian prints are striking on the stucco feature wall. A streetside bar is made for negronis before dinner, while a basement wine-cave can be booked for couples and groups keen on low-lighting and old shiraz.

Think rigatoni alla bolognese that's humming with long-simmered pork and veal, plus semi-secret ingredient fish sauce and focaccia with truffle butter to collect what's left on your plate.

Bread also comes in handy with a starter snack of fat white beans flecked with lemon zest and shaved bottarga, the deliciously salty, yet delicate, cured fish roe found in every Sardinian osteria. Later, scallops and squid are served fritto misto-style in a batter punched up with the umami bomb of Japanese dashi salt.

The ravioli di gamberi is definitely a dish to try - prawns swaddled in wonton wrappers swimming in brown butter and sage.