Redfern and Waterloo

Past and present collide

While respectful of the past, the suburbs of Redfern and Waterloo are intent on embracing the future, too – perhaps no more so than at the historical Eveleigh railyards, transformed in recent years to the cavernous, multi-venue space known as Carriageworks. The eclectic program here features theatre, music, retro dance parties and mini-festivals – and some amazing markets.

On Saturdays the space is a buzzing hive of activity as the Eveleigh Farmers' Market comes to life. Grab a coffee, chat to the farmers about their produce and fill a bag with everything from mussels and meats to organic veggies. The Artisans' Market is also a must – it’s held here on the first Sunday of the month.

Sports fans hoping to sneak a peek at the Rabbitohs in training should head to Redfern Park oval, while art lovers will find a range of contemporary exhibitions on George, Regent and Danks streets. If your heart flutters over vintage furniture and retro collectables, there’s no shortage of dusty gems to unearth in stores like Doug Up On Bourke, Mao and More and Retro on Regent.

If history’s your thing, head to Redfern. Back in the dim, gas-powered street lamp era of the 1890s, the suburb had the honour of being the brightest in Sydney – its Electric Light Station was the first to supply the city with electricity. The iconic building’s been reused since as Rolling Stone Magazine’s headquarters, and today, houses Martyn Cook Antiques.

Hungry? Sign up for a cooking class at Italian provodore Fratelli Fresh on Danks Street – or grab a table at award-winning Danks Street Depot, a bustling bistro made famous by chef Jared Ingersoll’s rustic, stomach-warming fare. If you’re exploring after dark, opt for a burger at Baffi and Mo.